Predicting wave runup on composite beaches

Details

• Journal Title:
  Coastal Engineering
• Personal Author:
  Conlin, Matthew P. ; Wilson, Gregory ; Bond, Hailey ; Ardağ, Dorukhan ; Arnowil, Colin
• NOAA Program & Office:
  OAR (Oceanic and Atmospheric Research) ; Sea Grant
• Sea Grant Program:
  ORESU (Oregon Sea Grant)
• Description:
  Empirical formulae for predicting wave runup (the maximum elevation reached by the water on a wave-by-wave basis) have not been widely tested on composite beaches, which have a characteristic cross-shore boundary in sediment size and slope. Using video-derived runup observations from two natural composite beaches in Oregon, U.S.A during both berm collision and inundation, the performance of existing empirical runup formulae was examined. The tested formulae were developed for sandy beaches, cobble beaches, and composite beaches. The sandy beach formulae showed good correlation with composite beach observations, however all but one tended to overpredict observations by 1–2 m. The overprediction depended in part on the definition used for beach slope, and is likely also a function of swash zone position and berm sediment characteristics.
• Source:
  Coastal Engineering, 199, 104743
• DOI:
  https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104743
• ISSN:
  0378-3839
• Format:
  pdf
• Publisher:
  Elsevier BV
• Document Type:
  Journal Article
• Funding:
  Grant no. NA22OAR4170102
• License:
  https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/
• Rights Information:
  CC BY-NC-ND
• Compliance:
  Submitted
• Main Document Checksum:
  urn:sha-512:a38bf2495288adf4a228f893acd7d91654710013cd9439a0f30552e8bc07ab79901d847c6c0b5c2dc0789454bcc6e8b1d7af44e39e419fc16b95ff0c8b50a614
• Download URL:
  https://repository.library.noaa.gov/view/noaa/71277/noaa_71277_DS1.pdf
• File Type:
  [PDF - 1.48 MB ]