Modeling of sediment transport in rapidly-varying flow for coastal morphological changes caused by tsunamis
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Modeling of sediment transport in rapidly-varying flow for coastal morphological changes caused by tsunamis

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  • Journal Title:
    Marine Geology
  • Personal Author:
  • NOAA Program & Office:
    NWS (National Weather Service)
  • Description:
    Tsunamis can cause significant coastal erosion and harbor sedimentation that exacerbate the concomitant flood hazards and hamper recovery efforts. Coupling of the non-hydrostatic model NEOWAVE and the sediment transport model STM provides a tool to understand and predict these morphological changes. The non-hydrostatic model can describe flow fields associated with tsunami generation, wave dispersion as well as shock-related and separation-driven coastal processes. The sediment transport module includes non-equilibrium states under rapidly-varying flows with a variable exchange rate between bed and suspended loads. A previous flume experiment of solitary wave runup on a sandy beach provides measurements for a systematic evaluation of sediment transport driven by shock-related processes. The extensive impacts at Rikuzentakata, Iwate, Japan and Crescent City Harbor, California, USA from the 2011 Tohoku tsunami provide pertinent case studies for model benchmarking. We utilize a self-consistent fault-slip model to define the tsunami source mechanism and field survey data to determine the characteristic grain sizes and morphological changes. The near-field modeling at Rikuzentakata gives reasonable fits with observed large-scale erosion and sedimentation associated with transition of the incoming wave into a surge and formation of a hydraulic jump in the receding flow. The non-hydrostatic module becomes instrumental in resolving tsunami waves at the far-field shore of Crescent City. The results show good agreement with local tide-gauge records as well as observed scour around coastal structures and deposition in basins resulting from separation-driven processes. While the erosion patterns in the laboratory and field cases can be explained by suspended sediment transport in the receding flow, bed load transport can be a dominant mechanism in sediment laden flows and scour around coastal structures.
  • Keywords:
  • Source:
    Marine Geology, 449, 106823
  • DOI:
  • ISSN:
    0025-3227
  • Format:
    PDF
  • Publisher:
    Elsevier BV
  • Document Type:
    Journal Article
  • Funding:
    Grant no. NA19NWS4670012
  • Rights Information:
    Accepted Manuscript
  • Compliance:
    Library
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