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Description:This study is an introduction to the dynamics of the oceans. The tidal disturbing forces due to the sun and the moon are discussed in de tail. The corresponding response of the oceans to these forces is discussed on the basis of the equilibrium theory, and when the inertia of the ocean is retained but the rotation of the earth is neglected, the limitations of this theory are indicated. Seiches in lakes, Proudman's investigation of the semi-​diurnal tide in the Red Sea, and the influence of pressure variations on the ocean's surface receive attention next. The influence of the rotation of the earth is discussed and special attention is accorded to Kelvin wave theory and to the existence of amphidromic points. Two investigations by G. I. Taylor of tidal movements, in the Irish Sea and in the North Sea, are discussed in detail, the former introducing ideas of energy dissipation due to bottom friction. The use of single and double layers in partial differential equation theory is discussed in relation to gulf problems where the earth's rotation plays a significant role. The role of viscosity and turbulence is discussed in the Ekman spiral and in Munk's ocean current theory. Transmission of energy by gravity waves and finally transmission and reflection of water waves in a region of floating ice are discussed briefly.
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Sea Grant Document Number:SIT-T-71-002
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Rights Information:Public Domain
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