Details:

Journal Title:
Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans
Personal Author:
Hansen, Jeff E. ; Raubenheimer, Britt ; Elgar, Steve ; List, Jeffrey H. ; Lippmann, Thomas C.
Hansen, Jeff E. ; Raubenheimer, Britt ; Elgar, Steve ; List, Jeffrey H. ; Lippmann, Thomas C. Less -
NOAA Program & Office:
OAR (Oceanic and Atmospheric Research) ; Sea Grant
OAR (Oceanic and Atmospheric Research) ; Sea Grant Less -
Sea Grant Program:
WHOI (Woods Hole Sea Grant)
Description:
The causes of surf zone morphologic changes observed along a sandy beach onshore of a submarine canyon were investigated using field observations and a numerical model (Delft3D/SWAN). Numerically simulated morphologic changes using four different sediment transport formulae reproduce the temporal and spatial patterns of net cross-shore integrated (between 0 and 6.5 m water depths) accretion and erosion observed in a ∼300 m alongshore region, a few hundred meters from the canyon head. The observations and simulations indicate that the accretion or erosion results from converging or diverging alongshore currents driven primarily by breaking waves and alongshore pressure gradients. The location of convergence or divergence depends on the direction of the offshore waves that refract over the canyon, suggesting that bathymetric features on the inner shelf can have first-order effects on short-term nearshore morphologic change.
Keywords:
[+]
Coast Changes Ocean Currents
Source:
JGR Oceans 122(4): 3451-3460
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.1002/2016JC012319
Sea Grant Document Number:
WHOI-R-17-006
Document Type:
Journal article
Rights Information:
Other
Compliance:
Library
Main Document Checksum:
[+]
urn:sha256:927ec69d482d41532cc9efaf0e0246255aec82be42df221d13a1284cadd6e07f
Download URL:
https://repository.library.noaa.gov/view/noaa/43841/noaa_43841_DS1.pdf
File Type:

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