Details:

Journal Title:
Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans
Personal Author:
Hopkins, Julia ; Elgar, Steve ; Raubenheimer, Britt
Hopkins, Julia ; Elgar, Steve ; Raubenheimer, Britt Less -
NOAA Program & Office:
OAR (Oceanic and Atmospheric Research) ; Sea Grant
OAR (Oceanic and Atmospheric Research) ; Sea Grant Less -
Sea Grant Program:
WHOI (Woods Hole Sea Grant)
Description:
Observations of waves, currents, and bathymetric change in shallow water (<10-m depth) both inside and offshore of a migrating inlet with strong (2–3 m/s) tidal currents and complex nearshore bathymetry show over 2.5 m of erosion and accretion resulting from each of two hurricanes (offshore wave heights >8 m). A numerical model (Delft3D, 2DH mode) simulating waves, currents, and morphological change reproduces the observations with the inclusion of hurricane force winds and sediment transport parameters adjusted based on model-data comparisons. For simulations of short hurricanes and longer nor'easters with identical offshore total time-integrated wave energy, but different peak wave energies and storm durations, morphological change is correlated (R2 = 0.60) with storm intensity (total energy of the storm divided by the duration of the storm). Similarly, the erosion observed at the Sand Engine in the Netherlands is correlated with storm intensity. The observations and simulations suggest that the temporal distribution of energy in a storm event, as well as the total energy, impacts subsequent nearshore morphological change. Increased storm intensity enhances sediment transport in bathymetrically complex, mixed wave-and-tidal-current energy environments, as well as at other wave-dominated sandy beaches.
Keywords:
[+]
Beaches Erosion Hydrodynamics Severe Storms
Source:
JGR Oceans 123(8): 5751-5762, 2018
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.1029/2017JC013708
Sea Grant Document Number:
WHOI-R-18-005
Document Type:
Journal Article
Rights Information:
CC BY-NC-ND
Compliance:
Library
Main Document Checksum:
[+]
urn:sha256:b06f3b181f6a0c96b066d9e126ee18b1eaa0037551f88b1deda7978bdfeaf177
Download URL:
https://repository.library.noaa.gov/view/noaa/43834/noaa_43834_DS1.pdf
File Type:

Supporting Files

• No Additional Files

More +