| Spectral techniques in ocean wave forecasting - :14090 | National Weather Service (NWS)
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Spectral techniques in ocean wave forecasting
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    "(WBTM) WR-51 "Western Region Sea State and Surf Forecaster's Manual" was prepared as a ready-reference for operational techniques of wind wave, swell, and breaker forecasting. The "significant wave" forecast technique developed by Sverdrup-Munk-Bretschneider (S-M-B) was used. This method was described, rather than the "Wave Spectra" method of Pierson-Neumann-James (P-N-J), as the computations are much simpler making the method operationally feasible for use by forecasters who did not have access to computer facilities. With the advent of Automation of Field Operations and Services (AFOS) and minicomputers available to each Weather Service Forecast Office, the cumbersome computations of the P-N-J method no longer deter its use"--Preface.

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